[continued from yesterday's post; series started 07/05]
So we're off to Taiwan with kid in tow along with my newly-acquired Chinese skills. I was eager to blend in, take part, and impress all of my relatives across the (other) pond.
Which is why I was confused when, after arriving at my father-in-law's house, I wasn't understanding much of what they said at all. After two days of this I got discouraged and asked my wife about it: "Why, suddenly, do I not understand most anything they say? I'm not blending in or taking part at all, much less impressing anybody." That's easy, she said. They are all speaking TAIWANESE!! So much for listening exercises.
Something else was happening that convinced me that I'd just scratched the surface and had a long, long way to go. The neighbors were curious about me, being the only white guy they see there every year or so, and would attempt to strike a conversation with me as I showed up at the store or passed by on the street. This was somewhat encouraging, as the conversation always seemed to start well. But you can only say "snot" and "diaper" so many times before both parties lose interest. (per yesterday's post)
Also I discovered something surprising that kicked in while trying to converse in Chinese. I would often start a sentence just fine, but midway through realize that I couldn't finish it! What happened in those cases is that my brain, being in foreign language mode, and without my even thinking about it, would automatically conclude the thought in Spanish. So here I was, face to face with a near-stranger in the neighborhood, starting my sentences in Chinese and finishing them in Spanish. And what would they do? KEEP ON NODDING IN THE AFFIRMATIVE as if they understood the whole thing! Either they didn't understand anything from the beginning, or it was a face-saving gesture. Either way a little embarrassing.
Being conversational in a rudimentary way also ushered in some unwelcome gestures of friendship. One guy, seeing that I was friendly and eager to talk, offered me a cigarette. I made it pretty clear - in Chinese - that I had no interested in taking his cigarette, to which he appeared mighty offended. Now I've never given a flip about offending anyone - unless I've discovered that I've made a mistake - but this unnerved me a little. Chenjean said no big deal.
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