From Athens - Seeking Alms

One day we were in the subway when seated near us was a man that was obviously out of it. Had a spacey look in his eyes, and appeared to be homeless. Nothing unusual on those points...those types can be found in every city in the world. What made this guy stand out was that his face was covered with white powder. My glance lingered because of that...why does this guy have white powder all over his face?

Here at the Acropolis we found out why. The man you see here is part of a religious sect that set up shop to ask for alms from the throng that was headed up to see the show. A little further down the way, behind the monument and away from the crowds, we saw a vanload of these individuals milling together (not dressed in the regalia, but still with traces of the white powder), perhaps waiting for their companion to finish a day's work.

I don't know whether this is because of the law or something else, but there is a vast difference between "beggers" in Europe and those in the United States. Over there we never, ever saw a bum standing on the street corner holding up a cardboard sign. Those that beg are usually doing something. The children that beg in the subway cars will sing or recite poetry. Some of the adults that beg in the subway leave leaflets of solicitation with each passenger, then come back to collect after allowing enough time to read the contents. Other adults will sing, or play an instrument, or "edify" passengers with a political harangue. One of my most vivid memories of the entire trip was seeing an old, old lady hobble unsteadily down the aisle of our car, singing so plaintifully and mournfully that it pierced the very soul.

In the subway tunnels there usually was an instrument, New York-style. I could have lingered all day listening to a seven-piece band that we saw playing French music...the quality was quite good.

On the surface streets and plazas the gypsies came out of the woodwork, always moving about, approaching unsuspecting tourists with the question, "Do you speak English?". And of course you never even noticed the pickpockets unless you became a victim. The other ones - the non-gypsies that stood still - had an act or gimmick, such as a costume, with basket nearby; several pictures of these will be posted later. I always gave money to them - an extra amount if I took their picture.

It was different, and refreshing in a way. Certainly more entertaining to the average passer-by.